Fairly often out at restaurants, the server or food runner will approach our table with two plates: a steak or giant, multi-layer hamburger, or some similar mound of meat in one hand and a salad or light chicken dish in the other and try to put the heavy dish down in front of me and give the salad to Erica. You know, of course, by the way I have structured this that the salad is usually mine and the big meat platter is usually Erica’s.

There is, however, a way that I do resemble a Felix Unger-esque character from a ’60s sitcom (or a cartoon cat): I love sardines and anchovies. And Erica doesn’t really like the smell. So I’ll wait for an evening when she’s out of the house to make a sardine sandwich or, as tonight, to get… The Salt Pizza.

Apart Pizza, my favorite-closest pizza place*, makes what they call a “Calabrese”. Anchovies, capers, black olives. So salty. So good. I get a 10” (the “small” at Apart) and 7 slices is the perfect amount. But then I don’t want to leave a piece out and offend Erica’s sensibilities, so I eat the last slice as well and it’s just a little too much salt and I’m a little dried out and burpy the rest of the night. So worth it.

* I mean, of course I have lots of favorite pizza places, with all the different kinds of pizza in the world, but Apart definitely wins out of anything I can walk to.